Given that this year’s Met Gala theme is “A Line Of Beauty: Karl Lagerfeld”, the renewed interest in the late designer’s vast archive should come as no surprise. While vintage Chanel will always be highly sought-after, his time at Chloé—where he did two stints, from 1963 to 1983 and from 1992 to 1997—is long overdue a revival.
“Lagerfeld-era Chloé is a great investment because it tends to be hard to come by,” Brynn Jones, founder of Aralda Vintage, tells Vogue. “When you are able to get your hands on any of those pieces, you’re blessed with a beautifully made historical garment.”
The designer’s early pieces at Chloé—which marked his first foray into ready-to-wear—are among the most rare. “His work from the late 1960s and early 1970s shows how well he works with prints,” Lauren Lepire, founder of Timeless Vixen, says. “The bold graphics with flattering silhouettes really speak to my personal taste.”
Along with his flair for print, Lagerfeld’s surrealist influences were on full display during his time at Chloé. Stand-out pieces include his famous “Shower” dress from fall 1983 and “Violin” dress from spring 1984, the latter of which was re-issued by Chloé in 2013 for the French fashion house’s 60th anniversary—and worn by Chloë Sevigny that same year. “[Lagerfeld] really had a way with making pieces that were as camp as they were elegant,” Jones comments.
The designer’s spring 1985 collection, entitled “A Homage to Dressmaking”, is also worth noting. “It really speaks to me for his ability to mix sophistication with a whimsical air,” Lepire says. “In this collection, he pays respect to the women who sew the clothes he and other designers envision. I was beyond thrilled to acquire the dress with the trompe l’oeil scissors on the front; the one-shoulder silhouette is so incredibly chic and the beaded novelty scissors add a playfulness which is uniquely Karl.”
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The bohemian aesthetic that Chloé is so well-known for is present throughout Lagerfeld’s collections for the house, with spring 1994—featuring a series of delicate floral dresses—being a prime example. “With lots of skin showing and fabric flowing, the models looked like ethereal goddesses,” Jones describes. “The hair pieces and accessories from that collection were amazing as well. It would be very cool to see someone recreate the full head-to-toe look.”
One major selling point for Lagerfeld’s Chloé is how easy-to-wear so many of the pieces are, even today. “Karl was the first to do wearable print day dresses for Chloé, which people should look for as an investment piece,” Sabrina Marshall, co-founder of Re-See, explains.