NEW YORK – The effortless, sustainable flair of Copenhagen drifted into New York Fashion Week on Thursday morning.
The Copenhagen International Fashion Fair and the Council of Fashion Designers of America kicked off a collaborative showcase of sustainability-focused American and Danish designers with a breakfast at their SoHo showroom.
Designers covered a mix of Danish and American brands, including Helmstedt, Berner Kühl, Han Kjøbenhavn, A. Roege Hove, Isnurh, M. Patmos, Harbison Studio, Melissa Joy Manning, Hope for Flowers by Tracy Reese, Julia Jentzsch, Jahnkoy, Nynne, Rudolph Care, Birgitte Herskind, Storm & Marie and Vinny’s.
“This is the first time that we’ve done something like this, and usually everyone comes to Copenhagen for the experience and the sustainability aspects,” said Maria-Angela Gonzales, commercial director at A. Roege Hove. “It’s nice for us to do the opposite and come to the U.S. instead. We are very proud to share the showroom with the American brands that the CFDA handpicked as well as our fellow Scandinavian and Danish brands.”
The sentiment among these designers is to slow it down, show don’t tell, and be resourceful.
Kasper Todbjerg of the Kering-backed Scandi brand Isnurh demonstrated the biodegradable method for his collared shirt with a floral print. In an Instagram demonstration, Todbjerg can be seen burying a shirt scrap in his backyard garden. He said that it took 35 days for the shirt to completely biodegrade.
Designers from Jahnkoy and Harbison Studio emphasized the importance of using certified fabrics, deadstock, and upcycled materials.
Even the embellishments at Los Angeles’ Harbison Studio are upcycled. The untrained eye could be fooled. Charles Harbison has plated the metal fastenings in gold. The finished look — as seen in a resort 2024 gold metallic plissé dress — is made cohesive without sacrificing the factory artifacts scavenged in Los Angeles’ garment hub. That’s where Harbison does most of his sourcing.
“We’re doing it our way where it’s not only ecological sustainability, it’s cultural sustainability and personal sustainability,” said Harbison. “For me, with this brand — I want materials that are lessening the impact on the Earth but I want it to sustain her in a personal way and make her feel better in the world. Whether him, her, they, our — I want them to feel better in the world. And from a cultural perspective, I want their identities to be emphasized.”
Tracy Reese has also been busy, opening a studio in Detroit. She is busy as she tells WWD. She joined the Remake board and is currently seeking grants for Hope for Flowers.
But it’s not a sustainable fashion event without some chatter on policy. “Without the rules and regulation, everybody can just do marketing,” said chief operating officer of Denmark-based Summery Kim Vedel Hansen. “Yes, I can do a lot with fabric and have good intentions but this will not make the change. Change has to come from above — politicians.”
In one last panorama, scanning the room revealed a strong display of updated minimalism and comfort kitsch that has become the global standard for sustainable style.
“It’s been a long time in the making but we’ve been overwhelmed by the positive feedback already,” said Sofie Dolva, director of Copenhagen International Fashion Fair, summarizing the shared sentiment with the CFDA. “We really think it’s an incredible opportunity for the designers. It’s in our core values to support sustainable and circular designers.”